Give them a true test and then make your decision as to which is best for you. Don't think you can evaluate them all correctly the first time you experiment with them. Try out all these systems over a period of time. Now you have an automatic line with four check spots, and it becomes a bit easier, in case of failure, to discover what you are doing wrong. In the line system, you check first your starting position, then your finishing position at the foul line, next your spot out on the alley over which you want the ball to roll, and finally, the 1-3 pocket, which is the ultimate target. A great many top notchers are line bowlers because it gives them an opportunity to check themselves on any phase of their delivery from the start of the footwork to the spot where the ball hits the pins. The line system is valuable in that it gives more check spots. I am what is known as a line bowler, which is one who combines the spot and pin systems. It re- quires not only a vast amount of experience, but a delivery so grooved that its owner can give the same degree of curve or hook to virtually every ball. Spot bowling is much more scientific than pin bowling. He does so because he must allow for the curve or hook to "bring the ball back" to the point or pin he wishes to hit, after the ball has completed its arc. In shooting for the 7-pin, he may aim at a spot in line with the 5-pin. Shooting for the 1-3 pocket, for example, he may aim at a spot in line with the 3-pin or the 6-pin. As a rule, the spot bowler possesses a hook or curve which forces him to direct the ball away from the ultimate target. He then sights at this spot and directs his ball over it rather than at the pins themselves. This spot may be anywhere from five inches to twenty feet past the foul line. The spot bowler picks a spot or board or shadow out on the lane in line with the 1-3 pocket.
Before I go into the spot system, I might say in passing, that a great many who call themselves spot bowlers are actually pin bowlers, or a combination of the two, because they look at the pins at some point during their approach or delivery. They sight the finishing point of their ball, and because of the type of ball they roll, they can look directly at their pins. The most successful pin bowlers are those who throw a straight ball or a slight hook and/or possess considerable speed. It is the easiest and the most natural, but often has not proved as effective for other bowlers as the spot system. The pin system is used by most beginners and by a lot of experts as well. All during the time that he is advancing to the line and releasing the ball he keeps his eye on the 1-3 pocket.
He makes a mental note of a spot where this imaginary line crosses the foul line and then takes this station on his approach. The "pin bowler" or "headpin bowler," as he is sometimes called, draws an imaginary line from the 1-3 pocket, which he wishes to hit, back to the foul line. Instead, I shall describe the various types and let each individual decide for himself which system to use. I am not going to advise one system or another. He does adjust his delivery at the last possible instant where he feels that it is necessary. For instance, I know at least one topnotch bowler who says he bowls "by instinct." In other words, he does not depend solely on looking at the pins or at the spots, or at a line connecting all of these, but merely starts his ball in the direction in which he instinctively feels it should go. But actually, it is just like putting in golf there is no exact method or style that one can say is right while the rest are wrong. Advocates of each type cite numerous cases to prove their points. Wherever bowlers get together, there is bound to be, sooner or later, a lively discussion of the merits of the spot, pin and line bowling systems. Everyone has his own points to prove regarding the spot, pin and line of bowling. There is no exact method or style that one can say is right while the rest are wrong in the game of bowling.
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